TASCAS, RESTAURANTS, CAFES, & BARS
Restaurants Close to the CNC | Cafés | Bars & Nightlife
More Restaurants Within Walking Distance | Further Afield
The food in Portugal is simple, delicious, and fresh. It’s a seafood lover’s paradise, where the vinho and the sangria and port wine and ginjinha (sour cherry brandy) flow for a decent price (as long as you avoid the tourist traps). Note that you will be charged for the couvert (bread, butter, and etc.) automatically brought to your table at the start of a meal, and you can feel free to refuse it as long as you haven’t eaten any yet! You can add a 10% tip to the bill. You’ll be expected to do this in addition to the serviço charge already included in the prices listed on the menu.Note that dinner starts later in Portugal than in North America, beginning around 8 and going until about 11pm. A tasca is a basic, affordable restaurant—think grilled sardines and swordfish and homestyle meat dishes. Check the handwritten sheets of paper by the door on the way in for the specials as well as the Pratos do Dia, often found on a separate sheet included in the front or back of the permanent menu. Sharing an assortment of Petiscos (the Portuguese equivalent of tapas), or starters, is also a popular alternative to a traditional meal. Vegetarian and vegan restaurants are abundant!
Lisbon also has some excellent cafés—not to mention about twenty different ways to order coffee. For example, a bica is a small espresso, a café a bigger espresso, and a galão a latte. You will find both the traditional cafés where Fernando Pessoa and his Orpheu group used to debate the literary and political ideas of the day and more modern cafés suitable for sitting down with a laptop. A definite stop on everyone’s tourist route should be A Brasileira on Rua Garrett, very close to the CNC. Back in the day this was one of Pessoa’s favorite haunts, commemorated by the famous statue outside. Order standing at the counter for quick service. Also, we recommend the custard tarts and codfish croquettes (pastéis de bacalhau). DISQUIETers can be found here throughout the day or next door at Café Bénard.
Below is a selection of restaurants DISQUIET staff or previous participants found to be worthwhile:
*Vegetarian places are marked with a V.
Close to the CNC
Café No Chiado: This cafe and restaurant was opened by the CNC, valuing the tradition of Chiado cafes, where culture, art, and gastronomy come together. It is literally attached to the CNC, on the site of the former publisher/bookshop Moraes. On the pricey side, but a great place to sit after workshop for lunch if you want to stick close for the afternoon talks. Some outdoor seating. Largo do Picadeiro, 10 (Chiado). €€
Bao Haus: Good Asian food, right next door to the CNC. Rua António Maria Cardoso, 72, 1249-101 Lisboa. V €
Das Flores: A very small family-run tasca serving excellent home-cooked food. You might need to book as it only has 22 seats. Rua das Flores, 76 (Chiado). €
Fauna & Flora: Healthy & mediterranean food, breakfast to dinner right next door to the CNC, below São Luiz Theatre (9 AM – 12 AM). V €€
The Green Affair: Vegetarian and vegan food in Chiado. Rua Serpa Pinto 15ª V €€
Honest Greens: Healthy eating with responsibly sourced and innovative dishes for any diet. Rua Ivens 44 V €€
Príncipe do Calhariz: A classic tasca, popular with locals and previous participants. Calçada do Combro, 28 (Bairro Alto). €
Popular do Capelo: A local, unpretentious, and inexpensive place with outstanding value. It is popular and thus busy, but not rushed. Open until 9pm. Rua Capelo, 12 (Chiado). €
O Cerveirense: A traditional old-fashioned tasca with excellent food where you can also sit at the counter. Open until 8pm. Some outdoor seating. Rua Nova da Almada, 38 (Baixa-Chiado). €
Toma Lá Dá Cá: A great little fish restaurant, wonderful food and cheap. Travessa do Sequeiro, 38 (Bairro Alto). €
Cervejaria Solar do Kadete: A popular place for locals to lunch, serving a variety of grilled meat and fish. Outdoor seating. Cais do Sodré, 2-4. €€
Cantina das Freiras: A self-service cantina run by nuns on the top floor of a building very close to the CNC, with spectacular views of the city and the river Tejo. Outdoor seating. Open between 12 and 3pm. Travessa do Ferragial, 1 (Chiado). €
Jardim das Cerejas: A vegetarian and vegan buffet. All you can eat—delicious and very affordable. A definite staff favorite. Calçada do Sacramento, 36 (Chiado). V €
A Colmeia: A hidden gem on the 2nd floor of a building. It serves a delicious and incredibly cheap macrobiotic vegetarian buffet lunch. Only open between 12:00 and 3:30pm. Rua da Emenda, 110 (Chiado). V €
Encanto: accoladed with a Michelin Star, the enchanted world of vegetables by Chef José Avillez serves a prix fixe vegetarian menu (drinks not included). Opens only for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. Largo de São Carlos, 10 (Chiado). V €€€
Organi Chiado: A “plant-based” restaurant with a daily-changing small but excellent menu. Outdoor seating. Calçada Nova de São Francisco, 2 (Chiado). V €
Ofício: Excellent menu of Portuguese typical dishes. Rua Nova da Trindade, 11 (Chiado). €€
Povo Lisboa: Next to the Menina e Moça Bar & Bookstore (highly recommend), Povo serves an all-you-can-eat-buffet lunch from 12 to 3pm. Sol e Pesca, also next door, has some of the best canned fish (conservas) in Lisbon. Outdoor seating. Rua Nova do Carvalho, 32 (Cais do Sodré).€
Taberna da Rua das Flores: This modern, hip little tasca specializing in petiscos is also very close to the CNC. The menu here changes every day, but it’s always great. Go right when it opens or expect a seriously long wait. Rua das Flores, 103 (Chiado). €€
Taquerias by Espada: Taquerias by Espada is a great option for Mexican food. You can find it in Rua da Trindade – 36C (Chiado) and also in Rua de São Paulo, 28. €€
Quiosque de São Paulo: A traditional kiosk with its esplanada on a beautiful square run by the same Chef as the Taberna das Flores. It serves very affordable petiscos and delicious traditional sandwiches. Praça de São Paulo (Cais do Sodré). €
26 Vegan Food Project: A hip vegan restaurant with an excellent menu including veganised traditional Portuguese dishes. Rua da Horta Seca, 5 (Chiado). V €€
Kaffeehaus Lisboa: Two Austrian friends opened this Vienna-inspired café in Chiado, and it immediately became one of the hottest addresses for a drink and a light meal, especially on Sunday morning brunch. Very close to the CNC, and a convenient place for small group meet-ups after class. Rua Anchieta, 3 (Chiado). €€
Sinal Vermelho: This restaurant has been around for ages. It isn’t hip or cosy or quaint. But it’s frequented and recommended by many locals as a safe bet to sample good, reasonably priced, traditional Portuguese food in the touristy neighborhood of Bairro Alto. Some outdoor seating. Rua das Gáveas, 89 (Bairro Alto). €€
O Farta Brutos: Look for the gold plaque marking José Saramago’s former favorite seat. Not the most affordable, but beloved by locals. Some outdoor seating. Travessa da Espera, 20 (Bairro Alto). €€€
Essencial: Excellent French gastronomy. Opens only for dinner. Rua da Rosa, 176. €€€
Cantinho do Avillez: One of the more affordable restaurants of the well-known Portuguese chef José Avillez. Rua Duques de Bragança, 7 (Chiado). €€€
Belcanto: Also by José Avillez, this is the first restaurant in Lisbon to be awarded two Michelin stars. Largo de São Carlos, 10 (Chiado). €€€€
Alma: This restaurant from Henrique Sá Pessoa also has two Michelin stars, so expect seasonal à la carte options, inventive set menus, and a price tag to match. Housed in the former Bertrand bookstore warehouse. Rua Anchieta, 15 (Chiado). €€€€
EPUR: Another pricey but excellent restaurant, this one from Vincent Farges. Largo da Academia Nacional de Belas-Artes, 14 (Chiado). €€€€
Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market): Lisbon’s main food market. The main draw is the food court, open from 10AM to midnight on Sunday to Wednesday, and from 10AM to 2AM on Thursday to Saturday. It’s found on the ground floor, divided into 30 restaurant stands with seating capacity for 500 people inside, and three terraces outside for another 250. The foods available range from seafood to steak sandwiches, burgers, ice cream, and other specialties including signature dishes by some famous chefs. (Cais do Sodré). €€
Bairro do Avillez: Another José Avillez establishment, this food court has different eating areas including a taberna, a small gourmet market, a courtyard restaurant with a focus on seafood, and a “gourmet cabaret” that opens at night and requires reservations. The taberna and supermarket are open from 12am to 12pm. Rua Nova da Trindade, 18 (Chiado). €€€
To.B – To Burger or not to Burger?: Good burgers and salads very close to the CNC headquarters. Rua Capelo, 24, (Chiado). €€
Visconti: New place for Italian cuisine lovers! Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, 18 (Chiado). €€
Brasserie de l’Entrecôte: Inseparable from its top secret recipe of sliced Sirloin Entrecote, with its herb-based sauce inspired by the genuine recipe of the Café de Paris. The fries and salad also come highly recommended. Rua do Alecrim, 117 (Chiado). €€€
Gun Powder: A buzzy restaurant with just ten tightly packed tables, serving small plates from across the Indian regions. R. Nova da Trindade, 13 (Chiado). €€
Boa-Bao: Good Asian food, inspired by the Asian markets of the 1920s, Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, 30 (Chiado). €
Afuri: New Ramen and Japanese restaurant, very close to the CNC. Rua Paiva de Andrada, 7-13 (Chiado). €
BAHR: At Bairro Alto Hotel you can find very good Portuguese cuisine with a contemporary touch. The terrace of BAHR was designed to be the extension of the restaurant and there you can enjoy a light meal while appreciating a stunning view over the Tejo River and the roofs of Lisbon. Praça Luís de Camões, 2, 5th floor (Chiado). €€B
Within Walking Distance:
Bar-Restaurante Snob: You have to ring the doorbell to get into this small vintage bar-restaurant. Expect to be served by Senhor Albino who has worked there since 1974. The place offers a limited food menu which includes its famous Bife à Snob, probably one of best steaks in town. And it’s open till 3am when you might catch the cook hanging up the washing between the tables. Smoking allowed. Rua do Século, 178 (Bairro Alto/Principe Real) €
A Provinciana: A small family-run tasca serving mouth-watering food at incredibly cheap prices. You’ll have to queue to get a table but it’s worth the wait. Just admire the collection of clocks hanging on the walls, all made by the restaurant owner. Tv. do Forno 23 (Baixa). €
Tambarina: A small and unpretentious Cape Verdean tasca where you can eat authentic African dishes like Cachupa and Moamba while listening to live music. Rua do Poço dos Negros, 94 (Bica/São Bento). €
Cervejaria O Zapata: A busy restaurant popular with locals for its generous portions of incredibly fresh seafood and fish. Rua do Poço dos Negros, 47-49 (Bica/São Bento). €
Anta Bar Petiscaria: This delightful tasca, run by a Galician and Portuguese couple, is a recent addition to the frenzy of little restaurants surrounding the plant-lined “green street.” It serves honest, traditional dishes as well as petiscos. Outdoor seating on the cobbled street. Tv. dos Pescadores, 12-12A (Bica/São Bento). €
Cantinho da Paz: This is the oldest Goan restaurant in Lisbon and probably still the best place to discover genuine Goan cuisine. The decor hasn’t changed in decades but you come here for the food and friendly service provided by the son and daughter of the original owner. Best-sellers are the Bojes as a starter, the Caril de gambas or Xacuti as a main, and Bebinca as a dessert. Rua Paz, 4 (Bica/São Bento). €€
Faz Frio: Recently reopened, this classic Portuguese spot has excellent petiscos. Rua D. Pedro V, 96 (Príncipe Real). €€-€€€
A Cevicheria: Has become one of the city’s most popular locations. Cevicheria was born to pay tribute to Peru’s national dish, by serving it with salmon, tuna and even codfish, but the best version, the one worth waiting in line for, is the pure ceviche: seasonal white fish, puréed sweet-potato, onions, seaweed and tiger’s milk. Rua D. Pedro V 129 (Príncipe Real). €€€
Arkhe: A stylish gourmet vegetarian restaurant by chef João Alves. You can sample a delicious seasonal tasting menu for 35€. Rua do Boqueirão Duro, 46 (Bica/São Bento). V €€€
Gambrinus: Many locals agree that you haven’t been to “Lisboa Antiga,” if you haven’t been to Gambrinus, It serves excellent traditional fare in an old-fashioned setting. But it’s pricey UNLESS you soak up the atmosphere at the “Barra,” or the long counter where you can taste their more affordable petiscos, including pregos (steak sandwiches), garlic prawns, soufflés, and what may be the best meat croquettes in town. R. das Portas de Santo Antão, 23 (Baixa). €€-€€€€
Zé da Mouraria: Considered one of the best tascas in the city, and it’s unclear if the word is out yet. Only open for lunch except on Friday and Saturday. Also worth it to walk about Mouraria and check out the plaques to all the famous fado stars. R. João do Outeiro, 24.
Further Afield:
The Food Temple: This crowdfunded vegan restaurant is located in a quaint Mouraria square with trees in the centre. In front of it is a curved stairway and a neighbour who sometimes opens her window to sing fado. Outdoor seating. Beco do Jasmim, 18 (Mouraria/Castelo de São Jorge). V €
Close to the Miradouro da Graça is the recently opened D’As Beatas, a tasca which is getting rave reviews for its innovative petiscos. Rua das Beatas, 8. €. On Largo da Graça, 79, you have the bohemian Botequim co-founded by the poet, playwright and activist, Natalia Correia. It serves petiscos till late. €. In the vicinity you also have Chapitó, an association dedicated to the circus arts with live events on some days. Its formal restaurant has mixed reviews, but locals go there for the wonderful views and the courtyard bar and petiscos. Costa do Castelo, 7 (Graça/Alfama). €€
Os Tibetanos: The back room is an indoor garden with a fountain/waterfall/ soothing-type thing. Has good vegetarian dumplings and Asian cuisine. Outdoor seating. Rua do Salitre, 117 (Close to Hotel Lisboa Plaza). V €
A Viagem das Horas: A cool little wine bar with an esplanada on the street offering a variety of natural and organic wines, as well as delicious and innovative petiscos. A perfect place to relax away from tourists while listening to DJ Rykardo play from his extensive vinyl collection. Outdoor seating. Rua José Ricardo, 1 (Arroios).
CAFÉS
Lisbon, like many European cities, has some excellent cafés—and also has about twenty different ways to order coffee. For example, a bica is a small espresso, a café a bigger espresso, and a galão a latte. You will find both the traditional cafés where Fernando Pessoa and his Orpheu group used to debate the literary and political ideas of the day and more modern cafés suitable for sitting down with a laptop.
A Brasileira: A definite stop on everyone’s tourist route. Back in the day this was one of Pessoa’s favorite haunts, commemorated by the famous statue outside. Order standing at the counter for quick service. Also, we recommend the custard tarts and codfish croquettes (pastéis de bacalhau). DISQUIETers can be found here throughout the day or next door at Café Bénard. Rua Garrett, 120 (Chiado, very close to CNC).
Café Nicola: While A Brasileira is inevitably associated with Fernando Pessoa, this emblematic cafe-restaurant pays homage, with a statue, to the poet Bocage. We hesitated to include it in this guide: it is situated bang in the middle of the tourist-filled Rossio square and the food can be hit and miss. But it remains a beautiful place with proud old-fashioned waiters, and many locals still swear by its Bife à Nicola or Bife à Café. Outdoor seating. Praça Dom Pedro IV 24/25 (Baixa).
Café-Restaurante Martinho da Arcada: More of a restaurant than a café, this was another of Fernando Pessoa’s favorite places to launch projects over drinks with friends. The efficient waiters look as if they’ve been there ever since this iconic place was founded back in 1782 and became a meeting point for artists and politicians. If you order from the separate sheet tucked away in the back of the menu, you can have lunch for less than 10€. Otherwise prepare to pay for the historical experience. You can choose to eat outdoors under the impressive arcades of one of the most important squares in the city. Praça do Comércio, 2 (Baixa).
Fábrica: With locations across the city, this more modern coffee shop near the CNC serves a hip clientele. Rua das Flores, 63.
O Trevo: Somewhere between a tasca and a café, this old-school place with its gruff staff sits right on the corner of Largo de Camões and serves good, quick meals, small beers (just say imperial), and good coffee. You can stand or sit. Praça Luís de Camões, 48.
Pastelaria Alcôa: Dedicated to the century-old art of making convent sweets in copper containers, following the tradition of the Cistercian monks who inhabited the Alcobaça region. Rua Garrett, 37 (Chiado).
Pastelaria Santo Antonio, Padaria Portuguesa and Padaria do Bairro are three good options for breakfast, a quick lunch, or snacks. Rua Paiva de Andrada, 8-12 / Praça Luís de Camões, 44 / Rua da Misericórdia, 13.
Marie Blachère Boulangerie: Homemade croissants, pains au chocolat, and different varieties of bread, including the famous baguettes. Praça Luís de Camões, 33.
Nicolau Lisboa Café: serves healthy and delicious food within a relaxed environment in which to pull out a book and have a small bite. Perfect for breakfast and brunch. Rua de São Nicolau, 17 (Baixa).
BARS & NIGHTLIFE
By the Wine: A trendy wine bar with wines by the glass from the well-known vintner José Maria da Fonseca. A great pre-dinner stop with small dishes of local cheese, cured meats, and oysters. Rua das Flores 41-43 (Chiado).
Clube da Esquinha: A typical Bairro Alto pub with indoor and outdoor seating. Rua da Barroca, 12 / Rua da Barroca 30-32 (Bairro Alto).
ZDB-Galeria Zé de Bois: A contemporary arts center spread out over several rooms in a large, dilapidated palace, it includes a couple of bars, a terrace, and a bookshop, and hosts exhibitions, concerts and guest DJs. Rua da Barroca, 59 (Bairro Alto).
If you want to avoid the masses of Bairro Alto and the “pink street,” you can try bar hopping from the esplanada of the Quiosque de São Paulo, on Praça de São Paulo, to A Tabacaria, a quaint little cocktail bar on Rua de São Paulo, 7, hear some groovy music at O Tabernáculo, on Rua de São Paulo, 218 (this can depend on the mood of its owner, Hernâni Miguel, who also founded the rooftop bar Clube Ferroviário), chance upon live music at Social B Lisboa on Rua da Belavista, 116, grab some excellent late-night petiscos and craft beer at Musa da Bica just off Rua de São Paulo, on Calçada Salvador Correia de Sá, 2A, and, if it’s not too busy, end the night dancing to funky live music or a guest DJ performing at Lounge on Rua da Moeda, 1 (Cais Sodré/Bica).
Pavilhão Chinês, on Rua São Pedro V, 85, in Bairro Alto is more of a museum than a bar, with its traditional oak counter and an incredible amount of collector’s items displayed in the glass cabinets lining its five rooms. It’s still worth a quick visit, though, just to understand why it attracts so many tourists. Similar, though less touristy, velvet-draped places that transport you back in time are Procópio Bar on Alto de São Francisco, 21 (close to the Mãe d’Agua reservoir museum) and Foxtrot, on Tv. Santa Teresa, 28 (by the romantic Praça das Flores, below Príncipe Real).
Fábrica Braço de Prata: You’ll have to take a cab to get to this cultural center in a former ammunition factory, but once there, you’ll have trouble deciding how to divide your time between the 20 plus rooms housing a restaurant, two bars, a bookshop, top-quality live music, exhibitions and even dance classes. Rua Fábrica de Material de Guerra, 1 (Marvila).
Titanic Sur Mer: An eclectic riverside bar-concert hall which hosts burlesque shows, poetry sessions, DJ sets, jazz jam sessions and other live music. Cais da Ribeira Nova, Armazém B (Cais Sodré).
B.Leza: The “Cathedral” of live African music in Lisbon. Cais da Ribeira Nova, Armazém B (Cais Sodré).
Tejo Bar: A ramshackle joint close to the Miradouro de Santo Estevão, where musicians go and jam after their concerts. Madonna invited several musicians to join her on tour after discovering them here. Beco do Vigário, 1A (Alfama).
18.68 Cocktail Bar: Delight yourself with various snacks or have a cocktail surrounded by history and singularity at this bar set in the volunteer firemen’s old headquarters. Largo Barão de Quintela (Chiado).